Elegantly waisted

Everyone is getting serious about suits again

When 24-year-old Abdul Rahman Saeed, a Bahraini, dresses for work, most likely he will put on a suit, perhaps even a three-piece suit. The same goes for Dubai-based American, Dave Niggel.

They’ll be as laid-back as the next guy on casual-Thursday, but for the other four working days, it’s suits and serious suits at that.

These two are among a growing number of young professional men embracing the return of the three- piece suit.

“The suit can be very powerful, especially the three-piece. It’s edgy and fashionable,” says Niggel. “It has a cool factor and a professional factor.”

He actually prefers the three-piece for clubbing too.

“I can take the jacket off in a hot nightclub and still look dressed up. You can’t get that with a two piece suit – which just looks too much like a loser,” he declares.

You’ll also see that the beautiful musicians and actors are adopting this elegantly waisted look.

Actor Ryan Gosling rocked a recent red carpet in a windowpane check three-piece suit and he is on the cover of an international fashion mag this month looking a treat in a navy pinstripe three-piece.

Recent Abu Dhabi visitor Justin Timberlake, the singer and golfer, has been making it seductively dressier in suits and vests.

Even hip-hop kings like P. Diddy and Jay Z. have all but abandoned their earlier uniforms of slouchy jeans and oversized hoodies for sharply tailored suits befitting their music mogul status. But it’s also a sign of the times some people work in.

Niggel, who works in finance, ordered several custom-made suits during a recent trip to Hong Kong. The suit is a sign of how well you and your city are doing.

“Venture capitalists, private equity, hedge funds – these industries are driven by formality. It is the uniform of this segment of business,” he says. “And Dubai is a place that’s doing well – the world is watching so we want to look good.”
Saeed agrees.

“Bahrain is a financial centre. You dress accordingly. The people you take seriously wear national dress or quality suits. Bahrain Financial Harbour is a massive undertaking and we are the face off it so we should look right.”

The pendulum in menswear is swinging from the sloppy casual looks to one that is sartorially sharp. It’s now hip to be fashionably formal.

“Classic menswear style is coming back – hats, vests, ties – things that your dad or grandpa used to wear,” says Bahraini tailor Saleem Ali.

“It’s like a rebellion by the younger guys wanting to dress better than their dads or guys in their 40s and 50s.”

What’s even more surprising is these young bucks are upping the style notch by having their three-piece suits custom made. Despite the off-the-rack three-piece styles from the great labels to be found in the malls of Qatar, Bahrain, Dubai and so, men are opting for made-to-measure service.

“They like the bragging rights to owning a made-to-measure suit,” says Ali. “Especially the guys in finance. They are very competitive, they try as much to out do the other guy.”

But it’s also about the experience. “They also want to get more involved with the purchase – selecting the crazy linings, the different colour buttonholes – details that give it their signature look.”

There’s a feeling that suits, particularly the three-piece variety, actually show individuality, creativity and that you’re a risk-taker.

“The younger generation aren’t expected to wear suits so this actually constitutes risk-taking. Hoodies aren’t rebellious – they’re all doing it..

“But when the younger generation dresses better, it also shows a sign of respect and that helps in areas like finance where youth can triumph and there’s a lot of pressure.”

A lot of designers are going for the classic suit look.

“The English gentleman look, but totally ‘now’ is where we are. It’s not quirky,” he says. “This is not your grandpa’s three-piece suit; we mixed it up. It’s sexier.”

The vest, or waistcoat, was a big hit this summer, worn with a T-shirt or even on its own like a high-end tank-top.

“The suit is the cape of power, the shield of success and it is here to stay, “says Mahir Ali, senior bespoke advisor at Ascots & Chapels, the new Dubai tailors.

And that’s what some men are finding appealing about this very traditional look: its surprising versatility. It works from the board meeting to late-night clubbing. It might even help you get into some of the clubs.