Wristed development…

Robert Tateossian gave up a career in investment banking to design accessories. He is now known as “the king of cufflinks” and he tells Georgia Lewis how he went from finance to fashion and why he is so glad he did.

May 2008

Tell us about your international upbringing. How has it shaped you into the person you are today?

I was born in Kuwait; I attended the French Lycée in Rome, followed by a strict Maronite school in Lebanon; then a high school in New Jersey and finally the Wharton School of Finance for BA in Pennsylvania. I have then lived in New York, Paris and at last settled in London! First and foremost, all that travelling around the world as a child has made me a very adaptable person. Being exposed to so many different cultures has honed a very receptive nature and has developed a sense of aesthetics which is quite useful for my designs and for the way I conduct my business.

What seven languages do you speak? How has this helped your career?

Understanding your clients and communicating with them in their own language is an invaluable asset. It automatically creates a bond with buyers and clients. I find it very frustrating when I have to communicate to a client through a translator, because invariably a lot of the dialogue gets “lost in translation”! I speak Arabic, French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, German - and English, of course. I would also like to speak Japanese but I haven’t progressed much in learning it, as yet. I have visited Japan more than 50 times and I would like to be able to communicate with the people of that country more easily!

What led you to choose a career in finance before you started in accessory design?

Graduates from the Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania are programmed to go and work on Wall Street – we are talking the 1980’s, the heyday of all investment banks. It was a prestigious and logical thing to. So I went to work for Merrill Lynch but at least I chose to work for them in London!

What did you learn from your finance career that has helped you in your accessory design career?

It is ironic that although I was in the Debt Financing division at Merrill Lynch, I was incredibly reluctant to get into debt when I started my own business. My motto has always been: “If you cannot afford to do it from cash flow, then you do not do it”. I am very conservative by nature but seeing how many companies fail because of rapid growth and escalating debt taught me some very valuable lessons very early on. I probably am much more cautious and analytical when it comes to making business decisions than as a designer graduating from Art school – whether it involves opening a shop or including a particular design in a collection. If something does not make financial sense, then I will not do it.

How did you get into accessory design? Was it difficult after a career in finance?

It all happened by accident. Merrill Lynch had been my one and only job. After seven years, I wanted to do something where I could be my own boss, be creative – and travel the world. On a trip to Asia, I came across a factory that manufactured silver. I saw some silver cufflinks that I liked and which I purchased. Back in London, I approached Harrods who also liked – and purchased – them. I made a very quick profit: £10 per cufflink! A week later, they called me and told me they had sold them out! I realised there was a niche to be explored and I immediately started designing a collection, produced with a silversmith in London and manufactured in Birmingham.

Of course it was a difficult change, from Merrill Lynch. From beautiful offices, executive dining rooms, an assistant, first class travels and hotels, expense accounts; and working with very high profile customers – from finance Ministers to Fortune 500 CEO’s – I found myself in a 10 square metre rental office, with a fax, a phone, an empty business card box and a mere £5000 to get a business off the ground.

What inspires your designs for men?

I spend 70 per cent of my time travelling – for business and pleasure – to many countries around the world. During these travels, my senses are bombarded with information, looking at what people are wearing, local architectures, museums, art exhibitions. This exposure gives birth to the mood or direction of my upcoming collections. I also attend regularly most Menswear shows worldwide, from Pitti Uomo in Florence to Magic in Las Vegas. I often attend catwalk shows in Milan, London, Paris or New York and I am interested in learning about trends in newspapers, magazines or through the internet. Fashion does not stop on the catwalks.

What are the important elements in your collections for men?

The “bread-and-butter” for our business are cufflinks. Every season, that is where we start: introducing over 150 designs. Another category that is gaining importance for us is watches. In addition to that, we have a full line of jewellery which ranges from bracelets (mostly in leather and silver) to necklaces and pendants. Our line of accessories is also quite extensive, with items such as collar stiffeners, money clips, tie clips, lighters, pens and desk sets. Each season, it is important that we introduce something new, something that is classic but also fresh.

What inspires your designs for women?

The same sources that inspire me for the men’s collections inspire me for the women’s collections. However, whereas every season only 40 per cent of the men’s collection is updated, with the women’s collection more than 90 per cent is refreshed, as we have to adapt our designs to the season’s trends. The women’s collections have a much stronger link with what is happening in the world of fashion, especially when it comes to mood and colour. Though our jewellery pieces are not “fashion” pieces and are meant to be timeless items, they do reflect the spirit of the moment.

Were you surprised by the international success of your collections?

Surprise happens when something is unexpected. From the very first day I started my business, my objective was to become the best in the world in the niche that I carved out for myself. I have worked very hard with all the team members at Tateossian over the past 18 years, to establish our brand around the globe – a brand that is respected and that has a presence in the most prestigious boutiques around the world, with a focus on excellence in quality and design. So, I would not say I was surprised but more that I am pleased with the global reputation that we have been able to build.

What are your plans for the future of your business?

Our plans are to continue on the path we have embarked on, establishing Tateossian as a premier jewellery brand for both men and women. I would like to see a network of retail stores with a presence in the key cities around the world. On the design side, I would also like to expand into areas that are complementary to our line of jewellery, such as small leather goods and possibly decorative accessories that can be pieces of art.

When you’re not working, what do you do to relax?

I am not the type of person who likes to sit still. So, to relax, I enjoy travelling around the world, especially to places that I have not visited before – my next destination is Bhutan. If I am at home, I enjoy entertaining and cooking for friends over a good bottle of wine.