Magic moments

Spring in Paris is always a time when the word “stunning” is rarely over-used. Men’s Style sent Joelle Missir to chronicle all the action this season – from the Palace to the buzz on the streets.

Paris Fashion Week began at the gates to one of the most magnificent residences ever built: the Palace of Versailles. It opened at L’Orangerie with the show to celebrate the 60 years of the House of Dior followed by a garden party to celebrate the 10 years of British designer John Galliano at the helm.

Décor from Michael Howells submerged 1200 guests into a magnificent setting that showcased 45 Haute Couture looks inspired by a host of neo-romantic artists. The catwalk was 130 metres long and carried some of the most stunning women to ever walk the earth including; Giselle Bundchen (inspired by Irvin Penn), Helena Christensen (inspired by Horst), Naomi Campbell (inspired by Alma-Tadema), Karen Mulder (inspired by Beardsley), Linda Evangelista (inspired by Caravaggio).

In an ambiance of refined elegance, each look was introduced by the musical and artistic direction of François Cayla accompanied by the chorus of the London Community Gospel Choir and the Loyola Preparatory Boys Choir composed of 10 adults and 10 children.

For the “Bal des Artistes”, or THE party of the week, 1500 additional guests were invited and they waltzed around 24 tents decorated in Hispanic-Moorish style. In the centre of the party, a giant water screen projected the fashion show, with music
by DJs Jeremy Healy and Benjamin Moreau. (for more pictures see the scene section)

The Men by Kris Van Assche

With its new artistic director, Dior under Kris Van Assche appears headed back to a classical era. Van Assche, a Belgian, emphasizes the materials, the design and the sewing work.

Dior opted for a presentation, rather than a show, which is often the case when clothes require more explanation. Hand-picked guests in “Hotel Particulier” at Foch Avenue in Paris saw the presentation which attracted a glut of international media because Van Assche has replaced Hedi Slimane who had delivered - edgy, tight, close fitting, black - silhouettes during his seven years at Dior Homme. Trained in the Royal Academy of fine arts in Anvers, Van Assche marked a delicate transition but Sidney Toledano, President of Christian Dior Couture, appeared delighted, which at this level is half the battle.

Van Assche presented his collection on motionless male models, as if they were pieces on the canvas of a grandmaster, in three “scenes” morning, day, evening with 23 looks; brought out of a larger collection all inspired by Dior’s work between 1947-57. The new Dior man wears very short trousers with high turn-ups and buttoned half belts, puffy trousers with “lumpy” creases, worn with white shirts with small collars – together with pleats and fine embroidery. The lapels of the jackets are well worked, with “origami” style inserts, beaded cuts and strips of black satin. This clothing mainly comes in white, black, and grey. “A new elegance, this is what I tried and wanted to show you today. Elegance is still vital to a man and this is precisely the role that the House of Dior should play today,” Van Assche said after the show.

Francesco Smalto: an emotional capital

At the age of 29, the discreet Youn Chong Bak has become the backbone of the house that made the uniforms for the French football team at the last World Cup. Promoted to the position of creative director, she is this house’s third generation of designers and appeared full of energy and determination at the launch. As it turned out, her jet-black eyes say much about the durability she expresses in her work. In her first collection Chong Bak showed the kind of cheerful energy that enhances masculine charm. The spirit of the collection was “Like a Sarah Moon” photo, it seemed to belong to years gone by, like a scratched negative.

“I find it easy to design for men,” conceded Bak. “Innovating, playing with details and proportions in a conventional sector provides endless sources of inspiration. Contrary to other artistic fields, fashion is particularly anchored in reality as it makes people more beautiful and more comfortable in their clothes.”

“[Alliance Designers took over Smalto in 2003] When I arrived, the label was known for its traditional tailoring. The challenge was to create an extended brand environment: we therefore had to create a dozen or so accessory lines and a B line. In terms of product, we meticulously worked on all the details that enhance movement and allure: We thus designed the famous Napolitan shoulder.”

Smalto has a strong emotional capital with its Italian roots and Bak has been inspired by a stoic, mineral-based palette of colours - white, oatmeal, sand, gray monochrome; a range that alleviates itself of the black so dear to Smalto. Her biggest change, however, was with the Smalto jacket shoulder – which is less striking and straighter, it is covered by a seamless fabric, which gives the line a more understated look. It is THE season’s detail.

Shaikh of Chic - Elie Saab

Mr. Saab does not do menswear, but his success as a haute couture designer in Paris has forced us at Men’s Style to appoint him the unofficial Shaikh of Chic. People everywhere scrabble for his signature whenever there is a fashion event, particularly in the Middle East. Indeed, the organizers of the upcoming Dubai International Fashion Week wanted him involved, but found he had too many commitments in France.

His success there has just resulted in a very rare opening in Paris. Saab just inaugurated a couture house in the No.1 Roundabout of Champs- Elysées. Men’s Style caught up with Saab at Montaigne Avenue, during the fashion show of his friend Stephane Rolland who was launching his first self-titled collection. “Getting closer to my loyal [international] clients and friends and being able to offer them the best is a great pleasure for me,” explained Saab.

Saab has been presenting in Paris since 2000 as one of only a handful of people who are part of the French Federation of Couture. He designs for the likes of Halle Barry, who most famously wore his dress when she won the Oscars, Elisa Tovati, Nadia Fares, Caroline Gruosi and Dita Von Teese.

To present his 2007/2008 fall-winter Couture Collection, Saab chose the Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione and a circular catwalk under a top where 52 women displayed all of his hard work. After seven months of renovation work in what was the ancient house of “Torrente”, Saab’s new boutique-atelier on the Champs- Elysées in Paris then housed the after party. (Abu Dhabi-based Lebanese architect Chakib Richani designed the new Parisian HQ for Saab, which will house his couture designs as well as his ready-to-wear lines and accessories.)

Among the party guests was the remarkable May Chidiac, who had part of her leg and arm blown off in 2005 during a car bomb attack. The blast was one of a series of bombings in Lebanon. Lebanese singer Elissa were also among the VIPs.